带华裔走入印度庙——跨族群推手陈亚才

专访(一)

近年,或许你会发现隆雪一带的印度庙不时出现一大群华裔大人小孩,好奇地注视着印度庙里的众神,专注聆听身旁一名中年男子落力讲解。不要疑惑,那正是隆雪华堂执行长陈亚才所带领的印度庙导览团。

这名历史与文化工作者的身影,过去经常出现在车水马龙的吉隆坡老社区。在多少个周末的早晨,陈亚才总是带着一顶鸭舌帽,领着一批批包括巫裔的年轻学生穿梭城中老街,耐心讲述每一栋百年华人建筑物的历史故事,让参与者听得津津有味。

在多元种族的马来西亚,这样的跨族群工作显得有些迫切,其中作为华社旗帜的隆雪华堂,更是长期的重要推手。某些繁忙的下班时段,总有各族群同胞赶到隆雪华堂,只为聆听在那里举办的各种跨语讲座。

跨族群一直都在

上周三午后,陈亚才坐在隆雪华堂执行长办公室内接受《当今大马》访问,畅谈他所推动的跨族群工作,其中印度庙是陈亚才近期的研究重点,他更乐此不疲地与记者分享他和印度庙的邂逅。

事实上,跨族群工作已非新鲜事,早在2005年办全国华团文化节时,隆雪华堂就已定位要做跨族群工作。已为隆雪华堂奉献十年岁月的陈亚才,更是亲身走在最前线。

跨族群工作该怎么做?陈亚才说,就从日常生活上的课题着手。

“例如隆雪华堂的民权委会、青年团及妇女组就关注许多公共议题,包括国安会法、伊刑法及净选盟集会等。”

对陈亚才而言,跨族群努力一直都在,只是联盟有所变化。他解释,早期是以国民醒觉运动(ALIRAN)作为主导力量,当有大议题发生时,国民醒觉运动就会扮演召集人的角色。

行动方略的成立

直到2011年杪,当马来西亚行动党方略联盟正式成立后,跨族群工作的推动才渐趋成熟及稳固。

“我们彼此觉得有迫切性去成立一个联盟,例如当印度团体面临状况并需要华族支援,我们会帮忙动员。”

马来西亚行动方略联盟是由国内21个非政府组织组成,包括隆雪华堂、国民醒觉运动、大马五大宗教理事会、大马淡米尔基金及大马伊斯兰革新理事会(Ikram)等等。

陈亚才也举例,当高喊马来主权的红衫军号召9月16日上街时,马来文艺组织——人民艺术家协会(PAKSI)就联合隆雪华堂等20多个组织站出来拒绝红衫军。

“这在某个程度上有助冲淡种族色彩,偏激的种族议题也就没炒作的机会。”

“这个国家若要走得更远,多元族群必须相互支援,把彼此的来往当作常态,而非一年一次的Open House(开放门户)才出现。”

小时往印度庙钻

当访问进入印度庙时,陈亚才说得口沫横飞,掩不住自身对印度庙的喜爱。

然而,这也不仅仅只是一个兴趣,陈亚才有更大的愿望。他想以印度庙为媒介,带领非印裔欣赏印度庙,进而认识印度人的历史与文化,最后拉近彼此的隔阂,让疏离感荡然无存。

而陈亚才与印度庙的缘分,原来起源于他的童年生活。

“那是无心插柳。我的童年是在树胶园及油棕园长大,所以和印度人及马来人相处很自然,也很愉快。”

“那时候会和印度人及马来人一起玩、一起踢球。当油棕园发薪水时,我们会一起去街场看一场电影、吃Mee Goreng(炒面)。”

“小时候并不觉得这有什么特别,因为当时没见过世面,不知道外在世界,所以认为马来西亚就是这个样子,各族一起生活是很自然的事,其他地方应该也是这样。”

不说不知,原来陈亚才小时候说得一口流利淡米尔语,但后来十多年未加练习,他也生疏了。他腼腆地笑了笑说:“现在只剩下10%至20%的功力。”

而每当园丘内的印度庙有节庆时,陈亚才都会插上一脚。“我们去看热闹,也会帮忙粉刷庙,所以从小我就对印度庙相当熟悉。”

从欣赏进入理解

后来陈亚才来到吉隆坡生活时,开始听到种族两极化的言论,这让当时的他非常惊讶。

“为何有种族两极化呢?因为我的成长过程中不曾出现种族两极化。”

“而且大家越讲越紧张,种族对立的气氛好像非常浓厚,大家都把彼此当作假想敌,认为你抢了我的好处,我占了你的权益,每一个人精神紧绷,讲起来情绪高昂。”

“所以我在想,能不能以印度庙作为一个起点,告诉别人如何欣赏印度庙,让大家从好奇进入理解,再慢慢相互欣赏。”

不过,陈亚才表示,虽然吉隆坡和雪兰莪到处都可看到印度庙,但走进印度庙后,身边很多朋友都一头雾水,甚至叫不出众神的名字。

虽然自小对印度庙已再熟悉不过,但当有人问到陈亚才关于印度庙上众神并列的故事时,他才恍然发现,自己也无法解释清楚。

“我想让身边的朋友了解印度庙的结构、他们拜什么神、庙里的布局及设计、每一座神像代表的含义又是什么。”

班上唯一华裔生

直到2012年,陈亚才决定下工夫研究印度庙,每每经过一个地方遇上一座印度庙,也绝不轻易错过它,设法停下脚步欣赏。

“后来我养成一个习惯,每到一个地方只要看到印度庙,除非时间很赶,我都会停下来看看,并找机会与庙里的负责人聊天。”

陈亚才甚至报读了十五碑(Brickfield)的印度教课程进修,更笑说自己是班上30多名印裔生中,唯一的华裔生。

“这个课程很好玩,只有我一个华人,其他学生全部是印度人。由于上课媒介语主要使用英语,只有约30%使用淡米尔语,对我来说还跟得上。”

“但上课后我才发现,与我同班的很多印度人从小受英文教育,他们听不懂淡米尔语,但他们认为应该了解印度文化,所以来上课。”

带导览打破隔阂

在一面进修上课,一面做田野考察下,陈亚才在2014年带朋友参观印度庙时,终于能对印度庙上的“满天神佛”侃侃而谈,也开始做印度庙导览。

“华人常常对印度庙很陌生,会问很多问题,我当然要解答,所以这变成无形的推动力,让我去研读更多书,也去请教更多人。”

“当大家多接触了印度庙,他们不再感觉疏离,对印裔朋友越来越熟悉,也会留意印度人的东西,如印度人结婚时在门口所摆设的米饰。”

在印度色彩浓厚的十五碑,就有一条伫立着四座印度庙的街,那是史考特路 (Jalan Scott),陈亚才喜欢带学员去那里参观。

会淡语易交朋友

在这条街上,最大的印度庙是斯里兰卡印度庙(Sri Kandaswamy Kovil),另外三间是Muneswarar印度庙(Sri Maha Muneswarar Temple)、哈奴曼猴神庙(Sree Veera Hanuman Temple)及黑天女神卡莉庙(Arulmigu Devi Sri Rajakaliamman Alanyam)。

“这很特别,一条街有四座印度庙。当我带大家到斯里兰卡印度庙,我会请庙里的副主席讲解印度教与印度庙,他是马大淡米尔语系的退休教授。”

陈亚才毕业自国立台湾大学历史系,对他而言,研究印度庙充满乐趣,而大马许多印度庙的宗教师来自印度,只会说家乡话,更让他充满挑战。

“他们只会说淡米尔语,不会讲英语,印度地方方言我们也听不懂,所以有时也很好笑,我只能用有限的淡米尔语与他们沟通。”

“但是当一个华人和他们(印度人)讲一两句印度话,对他们而言是非常震撼,所以关系很快就拉得很紧,很容易交朋友。”

带巫裔看华人庙

除了积极投入印度庙的研究,陈亚才不时也会带马来人游览华人寺庙,尤其是马来大学生。

“例如玛拉工艺大学学生不时会找我,向他们讲解华人传统建筑,我会带他们看陈氏书院及关帝庙等。有些是建筑系学生,他们对华人建筑非常有兴趣。”

陈亚才过去经常带华裔走访那些传统建筑,但他希望未来可向更多非华裔讲解华人的传统建筑。

“他们(非华裔)也是很好奇,为何一座华人庙里有那么多雕刻,又龙又凤又狮子等,这种好奇心就像我们看到印度庙时,搞不清那些神明所代表的含义。”

我了解你了解我

谈到国内近几年的种族情绪高涨,陈亚才分析,2008年308大选前后,人民的思维普遍上非常乐观,即人们希望能淡化种族与宗教议题,专注在加强国家的良好治理,促成更民主及公平的政策。

不过他说,2013年505大选后,整体气氛变得诡异,好像倒退到70年代,即种族及宗教议题非常活跃,甚至成为主导性议题。

根据陈亚才观察,各族在思考问题时,总偏向于如何保护自己、照顾自己的利益,却不习惯把对方也考虑在内。

“例如,华教人士只会关心华教存亡,但他们不大会关心巫裔与印裔学校的状况如何。”

“所以308大选后,一些公民社会组织就坐下来说,未来不管是什么议题,我们都应尝试做跨族群。”

他解释,跨族群的最大目标是达到“我了解你,你也了解我”,以至于最终在谈教育、政治、经济或社会议题等,都能用跨种族的角度。

盼明年出书分享

陈亚才的办公桌旁是一整墙的书架,右上方摆有一本厚厚的印度史诗《摩诃婆罗多》(Mahabharata)。

对任何文史工作者而言,撰写书籍是与人们最好的分享管道,他就曾于2006年出版《与叶亚来相遇吉隆坡》(2009年再版)。

结束访问前,他从书架上拿下一本书翻阅,透露自己希望能出版有关印度庙的书。

“我希望2016年可以编写一本关于印度庙的中文书,与读者分享如何欣赏本地的印度庙。”

下篇预告:公民社会是长远抗战——陈亚才不放弃改革理想

新聞《当今大马》

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